I had the intention of writing this post since last spring – when I discovered a marvelous coffee at a Tchibo shop close to my house. On the coffee package it said: “Espresso – Sicilia Style“. I am not an espresso lover for I find it quite strong but somehow this coffee attracted me most probably due to the nice silhouette of Sicily appearing in the background of the package. (Photo above: Blissful colors, Palermo, Sicily, Photo: kimkim.com)

Feeling that it could be a nice Italian coffee, I bought it and had its beans grounded at the shop for my filter coffee machine. The smell was so inviting and its taste, after I brewed it back at home, made me think that I made a good choice. This was the coffee I was looking for: strong enough to wake one up but not as strong as to bother you with its bitterness, and which puts one in a good mood with its rich taste and pleasant smell…

I could just stop here and this can just be a post about a cup of coffee as I had mentioned under the “Preface” heading of this website (Preface). However, I couldn’t stop getting involved in Sicily, the captivating silhouette on the coffee package above and the place which had offered this coffee to the nature. Besides, I had recalled that I had been to this beautiful island on the southern tip of Italy during a cruise tour -just to the Sicilian port city of Messina where the cruise ship anchored- many years ago. My Sicily experience is just limited to setting foot to its harbor city Messina. However, after I read several articles about the island, I can say that the cloth I bought there years ago (which had held much appeal for me then and which I still like) covers almost everything about Sicily… Life is full of surprises!

Sicily

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea separated from the mainland of Italy by the Strait of Messina. The island is home to many UNESCO World Heritage Sites including the renowned Mount Etna, Europe’s highest active volcano. Referred to as ‘Isole del Sole’ (Island of the Sun), Sicily is notable with its beautiful beaches and seaside towns, impressive architecture, cobbled alleyways, colorful buildings, balconies decorated with flowers, vineyards, orange or lemon trees.

Sicily has a rich history and was ruled by the Greeks, Byzantine, Arabs (from north Africa), Spanish, Normans and the Bourbons. Today, the effect of many different civilizations is seen in the Sicilian culture, either in its architecture or food. It was liberated from the Bourbons and incorporated into Italy under general Giuseppe Garibaldi in the 19th century and gained regional autonomy in 1947. (Britannica)

Sicily has a distinct culture isolated from mainland Italy – basically Italian but essentially Sicilian. The Sicilian mafia, dating back to the Middle Ages and referred to as ‘Cosa Nostra (Our Affair)’, is also part of this distinct culture. I have read that the Beati Paoli, a mysterious brotherhood and a pioneer of mafia, had operated in Palermo’s underground passages for centuries (Britannica, visititaly.eu). Sicilians had an experience of the life under the mafia and the state had passed strong anti-mafia laws. The murder of Giovanni Falcone, an anti-mafia judge, by a bomb in 1992 was a turning point in the struggle uniting the Sicilians against the mob. (nytimes.com)

Sicily is the birthplace of Cosa Nostra, the story of which is also told in the film “The Godfather” – a masterpiece and one of the best films I have ever watched. Based on the novel by Mario Puzo and directed by Francis Ford Coppola, the film was inspired by the real events swirling around the Sicilian mafia in America and Sicily. The 50th anniversary of ‘The Godfather’ has been celebrated in March 2022 with special screenings and events.

Sicily is divided into nine provinces: Palermo, Trapani, Agrigento, Caltanissetta, Enna, Ragusa, Siracusa, Catania and Messina. The capital is Palermo. Palermo and Taormina are the most touristic and crowded spots of the island.

Architectural Highlights

Sicily has an amazing architecture and archeological sites, being the traces of many different cultures that settled in the island. Although some streets of Palermo bear the signs of the bombing in World War II, baroque buildings and palaces and ancient cathedrals are well preserved. Palazzo de Normanni (Norman Palace – Royal Palace of Palermo) is used today as the seat of the Sicilian Regional Parliament in Palermo. The Palermo Cathedral near the Norman Palace is also noteworthy. Teatro Massimo (Massimo Theater) in Palermo is Italy’s largest opera house and the third largest in Europe.

The golden mosaics of the Capella Palatina (the Palace Chapel) in the Norman Palace and in the Cathedral of Monreale are admirable. Villa Romana del Casale, a Roman villa in Piazza Armerina town in the centre of Sicily and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, is home to some of the best preserved Roman mosaics which look magnificent.

Palazzo Valguarnera Gangi, built in the 17th century, is one of the secret palaces belonging to noble families in Palermo where you can see the sumptuous period rooms, chandeliers, mirrored walls and ceilings, velvet curtains and its gilded Galleria degli Specchi (Hall of Mirrors). Palazzo Gangi had once hosted many European monarchs. I have also read that some scenes of the film Leopard (about the story of Sicilian aristocrats facing change) directed by Luchino Visconti had been filmed in this palace. Today, Princess Carine Vanni Calvello Mantegna di Gangi lives in the palace with her husband who also conducts the tours of the palace. (ciutravel.com)

Note also Villa Valguarnera, a romantic villa and a historic landmark owned by a distinguished family from Palermo, in the town of Bagheria in the city of Palermo. (villavalguarnera.com)

The amazing buildings and historic monuments of Sicily is not only limited to the city of Palermo. The Valley of the Temples in the city of Aggrigento, a glorious archeological site with Greek temples, is referred to as an archeological wonder.

The city of Syracuse (Siracusa) on the east coast of Sicily is known for its Roman and Greek relics. The Greek Theatre of Syracuse (Teatro Greco) is the largest theater in Sicily after the ancient Greek Theatre of Taormina (Teatro Antico di Taormina) in the city of Taormina.

The small island of Ortigia is the historical center of the city. Piazza del Duomo, the main square of Ortigia, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with its beautiful Cathedral of Syracuse (Duomo di Siracusa).

Notes About Main Remarkable Cities of Sicily

Palermo

As well as its buildings, Sicily’s capital Palermo is famous for its street markets, where fruits and vegetables, fish, street food, colorful ceramics and crafts are sold at stalls. Ballarò (the biggest), Vucciria and Capo are the oldest and most beautiful markets in Palermo. It is said that best food is to be found at the markets.

Caffè Spinnato in Palermo, known for its espresso and classic Sicilian pastries, had once been elected the best cafe in Sicily. Owner Mario Spinnato is the fifth generation of his family to run the cafe (theguardian.com/travel). Caffè Spinnato is also said to be a perfect place to watch the passeggiata, the Italian traditional evening stroll, which starts at 4:30 pm, when Sicilian boys and girls in their best clothes stroll past the cafe. A pianist plays at the background.(cognoscentitravel.com)

You may also like to note “Osteria dei Vespri” mentioned as one of the top restaurants around Palazzo Gangi in Palermo, serving traditional Sicilian food.

Villa Igiea, the Belle-époque hotel by the seaside in Palermo, which I had written about in my older post titled “Classic Hotels – Part 2” looks glorious (roccofortehotels.com). Claudia Cardinale, Burt Lancaster and Alain Delon had stayed here during the shooting of the film “The Leopard“.  Elizabeth Taylor had four honeymoons at this fabulous hotel. (You can check my older post here).

Cefalù Town

Cefalù is a picturesque fishing village in Palermo popular with its sandy beaches. It is much calmer and notable with its clear sea, old houses, narrow streets and grand cathedral. Arab-Norman route from Palermo and Cefalù as well as the Cathedrals of Cefalù and Monreale have been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. (visitsicily.info)

I have read that Cefalù and the nearby pretty Sicilian village Castelbuano are the towns where some scenes of the film “Cinema Paradiso” were shot. I haven’t watched Cinema Paradiso but plan to watch this beautiful touching and multi-award winning film I read about.

Trapani

Trapani is a seaside town known for its pink and blue salt pools. Sicily had a salt pool tradition, fading due to economic and technological reasons (cntraveler.com). From Trapani, you can take the cable car up to the medieval hilltop town of Erice. The town of Segesta, with its well- preserved Doric temple, is also nearby. There are also day trips to Trapani, Segesta and Erice from Palermo. The port of Trapani is a gateway to Sicily’s Egadi Islands.

Agrigento

An historical city basicaly known for the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Valley of The Temples. Closeby is the renowned Scala dei Turchi (Stair of the Turks) – white stone cliffs sliding into the sea and overlooking the sandy beaches.

I took note of the Bio Resort (Organic Farm Resort) Fontes Episcopi, in a quiet countryside (fontesepiscopi.it). I also took note of the Michelin-starred terrace of Hotel Villa Athena in Agrigento with stunning views of the area (the majestic Valley of the Temples at a distance), which is said to serve incredible involtini di melanzane (eggplant rollups). (cntraveler.com)

You may also like to note the chic seaside village of Sciacca in the province of Agrigento. It is stated that Google hosts its annual “Google Camp” conference in ‘Verdura Resort‘, a glamorous hotel and golf resort in Sciacca which welcomed many celebrities, since 2014 (pressreader.com). As an event of the conference, Google hosts a dinner every year at the Valley of the Temples near the resort accompanied with a celebrity performance (observer.com).

The Island of Ortigia, Syracuse

Ortigia Island is the historical centre of the city of Syracuse. Duomo Square (Piazza del Duomo) with its marvel of Cathedral of Syracuse is a must see. You can also swim in the turquoise sea at its picturesque harbor or take a passeggiata (traditional Italian evening walk) around the island.

Caffè Apollo is suggested for the classic Sicilian breakfast of almond flavored granita (an icy fresh fruit dessert) and brioche. I also took note of the historic food market of Ortigia and the sandwich shop Caseificio Borderi famous for its large and rich sandwiches.

I have read about the last remaining makers of ‘i puppi Siciliani‘ (Sicilian puppets) in Ortigia, popular in theaters (‘Opera dei Pupi‘ – Sicilian puppet theatre) throughout Sicily during the 1800s. The evening performances that took place in the puppet theatres provided opportunities for social gatherings. Opera dei Pupi and the art form of Sicilian puppets are protected by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage (unesco.org).

Noto

To the south of Syracuse is the beautiful city of Noto – captivating with its architecture and baroque buildings of the early 18th century. Of all the places I have read in Sicily, the baroque city of Noto appealed to me most with its historic charm and baroque nobility and romance.

In an article I read about Sicily in Condé Nast Traveller , the travel writer Erin Florio says:

“In the beautiful village of Noto, I stroll past its 18th-century cathedral after the sun goes down, the streetlamps coating the Baroque town in a dreamy amber hue.” (Erin Florio, cntraveler.com, May 26, 2022)

I took note of the boutique hotel “Seven Rooms Villadorata“(7roomsvilladorata.it), mentioned mostly as the most beautiful hotel in Noto town. I strongly suggest that you watch the video about Sicily and Noto at the website of this charming hotel (Click for the video), which I think is a perfect vision and synthesis of the beauties of Sicily and its Noto town.

Caffè  Sicilia is a famous coffee shop in Noto that has been in the same family for four generations. Corrado Assenza, pastry chef and owner of Caffè Sicilia, had been featured on ‘Netflix Chef’s Table’. Chef Assenza is renowned for his simple traditional Sicilian pastry recipes. (bbc.com/travel).

Other notable Baroque cities close to Noto in the surrounding region of “Val di Noto” are Ragusa, Modica, Scicli and the fishing village of Marzamemi all declared as UNESCO World Heritage Sites together with Noto.

I have read about ‘Rosso Cinabro’, the last remaining workshop of the Sicilian carrettieri (Sicilian carters)in Ragusa Ibla – the older district of Ragusa. ‘Maria Guestella’, one of the last remaining makers of traditional Sicilian lace whose studio is in Ragusa is also mentioned. (cntraveler.com)

Modica is famous for its dark granular chocolate, made first by the Spanish in Modica and inspired by an ancient Aztec recipe used for centuries. You can visit the historic Antica Dolceria Bonajuto shop in Modica dating back to 1880s for this specialty chocolate with chilli, cinnamon, lemon oil, sea salt, vanilla, caramel and other flavours. (bbc.com/travel)

I have read that Mick Jagger stayed a few months in Noto during the pandemic, on the estate that a friendly family provided to him, after which he bought a house in Portopalo also in the province of Syracuse (italiani.it).

Taormina

Taormina is a postcard city in the province of Messina on the east coast of Sicily, a gateway to Mount Etna – the highest active volcano in Europe which dominates Sicily’s skyline.

Ancient Theater of Taormina (Teatro Antico di Taormina), Greek theater built in the third century, is a must see. The theater, which has perfect acoustics due to its shape, is still used today in several events. (visitsicily.info)

In Taormina, it is worth a visit to San Domenico Palace, a Four Seasons Hotel located high above the Ionian Sea, with marvelous views of the Mediterranean including the views of Mount Etna and Greek Theater of Taormina. This legendary hotel, dating back to 1374, had welcomed many celebrated guests like Oscar Wilde, King Edward VIII, Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn and Sophia Loren. (San Domenico Palace, Taormina)

If you like a closer place to the beach, Villa Sant’Andrea, a Belmond hotel on the Bay of Mazzarò is suggested. (cntraveler.com) Villa Sant’Andrea is a charming hotel and seems as a nice retreat with its terraced gardens and a beautiful private beach. They offer hand-picked local fruit at breakfast and a shuttle service to the nearby town center. (belmond.com)

Tours are organized to Mount Etna, the symbol of Sicily, from the cities of Taormina and Catania. Hiking to the Silvestri craters is suggested to explore the volcano and enjoy the landscape. The Etna Wine Route is also suggested (etnaexclusive.com).

Mount Etna is an outdoor-adventure destination (hiking, biking or skiing) as well as a favorite wine destination. The mineral-dense soil due to the lava flows is said to attract Italy’s top winemakers. You can visit the vineyards and wineries in the region. The award-winning Cottanera winery on Etna is notable. (cntraveler.com)

Small Islands of Sicily

Aeolian Islands

The Aeolian Islands are seven volcanic islands (Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli, Filicudi and Alicudi) located off Sicily’s northeastern coast. Formed by volcanic eruptions over time, Aeolian Islands are a UNESCO World Heritage site with their unique geology, sand beaches and mud baths. Lipari is the largest and most popular of the islands and has the best ferry connections. (visitsicily.info)

Note that The Bay of Pollara on the island of Salina is one of the film locations for the 1994 film ‘Il Postino‘ (The Postman). “La Locanda del Postino”, a pleasant hotel on this island had been named for the film. Also note that you can have a scenic lunch at “Bar Ingrid” on the island of Stromboli named after Ingrid Bergman’s famous 1950 film ‘Stromboli‘. (forbes.com)

Egadi Islands (Aegadian Islands)

The Egadi Islands are the three small islands (Favignana, Levanzo, and Marettimo) located about a mile off Sicily’s west coast – accessible from the Sicilian city of Trapani. The Egadi archipelago is notable with their rocky landscape and turquoise waters. According to what I have read in an article:

“Bohemian Sicilians come here to hide out and reset… .” (Stephanie Rafanelli, cntraveler.com, August 2021)

Favignana island, a half-hour hydrofoil ride from Trapani, is the largest and the most touristic island. It is famous for its tuna fisheries, Cala Rossa beach, and fascinating ruined fort of Santa Caterina.

The island of Marettimo is said to be the most mystical of the Egadi Islands with its secret caves, bays and Punta Libeccio lighthouse. Levanzo is the smallest of the three islands. I have read that Miuccia Prada owns two villas in Levanzo and one at Cala Rossa.

Some of the best places to stay in Egadi Islands are listed as “Il Baglio Sull’Acqua”, “Casa Dell’Arancio” and “Zu Nillu” in Favignana, and “Hiera” in Marettimo.

Food

I started this post with coffee and I will finish with food. Eggplants, tomatoes, figs, pomegranates, dates, oranges, lemons, mulberries, almonds and more… Sicily is blessed with many fresh products of nature grown in the island.

We see the influence of different cultures in the Sicilian cuisine. Some of the typical dishes include  ‘Arancini‘ (baked, stuffed rice balls), and ‘Panella‘ (chickpea fritters) – popular food also sold at street markets-, ‘Ricotta Infornata‘ (baked ricotta cheese), ‘Aubergine Parmigiana‘ (Eggplant Parmesan), ‘Involtini di Melanzane’ (eggplant rollups), ‘Pasta alla Norma‘ and ‘Vermicelli alla Siciliana‘.

Granita (an icy fresh fruit dessert) is very popular in the island. Sicilian Granita is mostly prepared with lemon, almond or black mulberry. It is served with a brioche at the classic Sicilian-style breakfast. (sicilyonweb.com)

However, I think the best and most original creation of the Sicilian cuisine is “cannoli“, classic Sicilian pastry with ricotta, a dessert served in almost every Sicilian cafe. In an article I have read it says: “Naples has pizza, Rome has cacao e Pepe and Sicily has cannoli“, referring also to the famous line in the film The Godfather: “Leave the gun, take the cannoli“. (bbc.com/travel).

Finally ….

After visiting the island in 1787, Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe had written:

“To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all, for Sicily is the clue to everything.” (Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe, “Italian Journey” via belmond.com)

When I started to write this post, I could never think that it would get this far. Greek temples, Norman palaces, baroque buildings, cobbled backstreets, sandy beaches, turquoise waters, volcanoes … Traces of so many different cultures … Sicily seems mystic, and magical. An amazing island with so many colors and so much to offer. Oranges, yellows, pinks… Blissful colors, reflected in its buildings, flowers, fruits or granitas. All to enjoy, with a cup of Sicilian espresso…